China and the Beautiful People
Girls with long yellow, brown and even red curly
hair, walk along Shanghai’s
stylish riverside quarters; women with white, shiny teeth cast upon a scenery
of till now rarely seen full and glamorous breasts. Their bodies seem carved
out of ivory, tight in their Levi’s jeans tuck in trendy and costly fine
leather boots. Their pearl-smooth faces look radiant, even flirty at moments
with tones of blue, red and yellow. These are not women, but angels cast from
earth-born elements by the hands of men – chemists and surgeons, vials and
scalpels in hand. These are China’s beautiful women, nothing reminiscence of their
past; people whom regardless of restrictions present and past have come to
understand and believe that appearance is king and key to opportunity and
glories to come.
People in all the big cities in China have changed their ways. They
no longer drink tea, but coffee instead. They no longer wear silk robes, but
jeans instead. So many things have changed during the past 25 years in China;
especially the condition in which people live, the way they see things and the
concepts they believe in and live by. Chinese people are no longer those
old-styled, dark and uniformly dressed people we got so used to seeing in
documentaries and propagandistic posters. Chinese people have parted from their
traditional roots, and have transformed their society into one that does not
follow trends, but sets the trends instead.
The newest
trend is the pursuit of beauty, no matter the cost or the sacrifice. Hair and
beauty salons, nail salons, spas, cosmetic surgery and beautifying potions
galore have become a staple in China’s
new market society. China’s
beauty industry is an awakening giant; a giant key driving force in the
country’s thriving economy.
The Chinese
beauty industry, a mere 25 years old, is just a baby in terms of development;
and just like one it must take a few false steps and tumble, before it grows
into a more solid and stable condition. The Chinese beauty industry fed by the
people’s desire to be healthy and beautiful, is a top player in China’s economy
and at the same time a headache for the still underdeveloped legal system which
now, more than ever, lags behind the rapid economic development and growth of
the world’s new superpower.
Beauty and GDP
China is one of
the world’s most dynamic economies, together with India
and Japan.
It is expected that within the next 10 years, China
will overtake the United
States as the world’s economic powerhouse.
It is needless to say that the Chinese beauty industry, one of its 5 top income
producers, will go hand in hand with such an important development.
China’s
economy has been growing at a 9% annual rate since the beginning of the
eighties, improving the life of all Chinese whose income (on a per capita
basis) has already surpassed the USD 1000 levels; a number impossible to attain
for a vast majority of the Chinese people just a few years ago.
With a much
higher income, Chinese people are now able to dedicate a greater portion of
their salary to expenses other than food, housing or basic education. The sums
dedicated to items and services such as cell phones, houses, leisure, cars and
specially beauty are on the increase. It is estimated that in the year 2003 the
Chinese people spent over USD 18.6 billion (154 billion Yuan) on beauty and
hair salons alone. After reading the figures above, it’s not amazing anymore to
see the number of hair and beauty salons existing in just a single block in any
given neighborhood.
According to
the All China Federation of Industry and Commerce, back in 2003 there were only
1.54 million beauty parlors compared to the almost 2.0 million in 2006. These
numbers show the industry has grown tremendously and at a rate superior to that
of China’s
GDP and a rate 5 times that of the American Economy for the same time period.
The Chinese economy grew at a 9 % average in the years 2003, 2004 and 2005. The
American economy didn’t do as well with an average growth rate of merely 3.3%
for the same period.
A GDP figure
is not just a number, but in fact a measure of how an economy is performing and
of the trends that act behind it. A growth of 15% in the beauty sector alone
says a lot of how important looking good and beautiful has become for the
Chinese people.
Getting a new
hairstyle, tinting one’s hair, losing a few pounds or getting the latest design
on one’s own or acrylic nails is the latest fad. Everybody in China is doing
something to embellish themselves in one way or another. Beauty salons,
otherwise known as beauty parlors are open till late at night (sometimes till
as late as twelve or one in the morning) to take care of a continuously growing
clientele.
It is
estimated that the 1.84 beauty salons currently operating in China employ a
staggering 9 million people; almost all between the ages of 20 and 30, and
mostly women making an average salary of about 1,050 (USD 131.00). The beauty
industry as a whole employs 20 million people. According to Zhang Xiaomei, a
member of the CPPCC (Chinese People’s Consultative Committee) and president of
China Beauty and Fashion, it is estimated that the industry has the potential
to create 1 million jobs annually. With such a rapid growth rate, the beauty
industry has taken 5th place as a preponderant GDP factor, after
real estate, tourism, automobile and telecommunications industries.
The economy is an interconnected web of all those enterprises,
public or private, that in some way or another commercialize either products or
services. Sales of one company generate sales for its suppliers of both goods
and services. A greater number of beauty and hair salons and their
corresponding sales translate into greater sales for all the companies which
supply them with the products and services they need; namely: beauty parlor
furniture, machinery, lotions, creams, chemicals, toiletry, etc., etc. An
increasing number of beauty salons results in an increasing number of people
employed. The income perceived by these new employees will in turn become
greater income for all the other sectors of the economy. The projections for
the years to come are simply mind-boggling.
The
development of the beauty industry in China
affects more than just simple economic indexes; it brings well-being to
millions of families across China;
especially those pertaining to the middle-low and low income classes. A part of
the income generated by the industry last year, some USD $21.5 billon will make
its way to those in rural areas which is where it’s most needed.
If the beauty
industry’s growth does not stagnate, China will for sure and soon enough
become synonymous with the term “Beauty”, with a beautiful woman or a
good-looking man in every household.
What’s
driving the industry’s rapid growth?
Beauty past
and present
What’s behind
the industry’s rapid growth? Namely: higher incomes, China’s internationalization and
WTO access, more demanding customers and customer protection standards, as well
as more liberal and accessible information on the World Wide Web and in the
general media.
The search
for beauty is not limited to Chinese women. Not only Chinese women, but men as
well all over the world are in a continuous search for a method, for a potion
or a secret that will make them more beautiful, stronger, younger – maybe even
immortal.
Human search
for beauty is ageless; it’s a human characteristic wanting to be healthier and
look better. There have always been beautiful women in China, but
according to history, the three most beautiful women of all times lived long
before our time. Empress Wu Zetian and high-ranking concubine Yang Yuhan of the
Tang Dynasty, along with Empress Dowager Cixi of the late Qing Dynasty
practiced different, but equally effective methods to achieve heavenly beauty.
Empress Wu
Zetian, a Taoist, had the habit of meditating in order to beautify herself. She
would close her eyes and clear her mind of all thoughts. Clearing one’s mind
and having a good rest are proven weapons against aging, if practiced
continuously. This is one of the main reasons extreme sports have given way to
yoga, which is now more popular than ever
Famous
concubine Yang Yuhan had perfect skin. What was her secret? She loved to eat
Litchi, a traditional Chinese fruit rich in various elements beneficial for the
attainment of a clear and healthy complexion. She also enjoyed taking
hot-spring baths which helped add moisture to her skin.
Last, but not
least, Empress Dowager Cixi knew of the importance of taking care of her skin
early in the morning and late at night before going to bed. In the morning she
applied face powder made from pearls and a skin cream made from flower
distills. At night she applied an egg white mask and flower extracts.
Empress Cixi
also had the habit of massaging her face with a roller made from jade, a stone
believed to have natural health-enhancing properties.
If you’re not
into the habit of taking care of your appearance, all the methods mentioned
above will surely seem to be an inconvenience at the expense of precious time
you could’ve used to simply work or watch a good TV show. Taking one thousand
and one troubles to look good; though, doesn’t seem to pose a problem for the
now millions of Chinese people heading for the nearest beauty salon or
cosmetics shop, every day.
The methods
used back in the time of the 3 beauties and the methods used nowadays in order
to attain beauty and health, are as varied as the people that practice them.
The important thing; though, is not how beauty is attained, but the attainment
of beauty in itself. It is thus not surprising to see the number of cosmetic
products, and lately cosmetic surgery methods offered in the market to change
one’s appearance and stop being average or plainly said “ugly”.
Not only
women can be beautiful
As the trend
to be better looking grows stronger, so does its influence on China’s male
population. The number of Chinese men now paying attention to their appearance
grows by the day as a most recent investigation shows.
Men, usually
portrayed as the strong and rough side of the sexes seem to be spending less
time drinking and playing tug-o-war, and spending more time in front of a
mirror and in beauty salons (unisex or for men). The same goes for the sums
they’re spending on cosmetics; a phenomenon unseen just a few years ago, just
like the signs advertising cosmetic products for men, now plaguing the streets
of China.
According to
a study performed by the China Hairdressing and Beauty Association, about 30%
of the total annual revenues of the beauty industry comes from male customers
whose expenditures on beauty treatments and cosmetics grows at a 20% rate every
year.
Dr. Gu
Caixia, a surgeon at the Shanghai Ren’Ai hospital said that currently men
amount up to 20% of the hospital’s cosmetic surgery customers, whereas the
percentage barely reached 5% just 3 years ago. It’s quite clear that in our
times beauty is not just a female obsession.
Cosmetics are
just not enough
More and more
Chinese people are looking for methods to attain beauty in a more permanent
way. Eye-shadow and lipstick wear-off, mascara and face powder disappear after
a good wiping or bath; only to reveal those hard-to-accept, God-given
imperfections we were born with: noses too small, eye-lids too plain, breasts
and buttocks too small for others too notice and want, are what is driving the
development of the not so beautiful sister of cosmetology – cosmetic surgery.
The interest
of Chinese people on cosmetic surgery has its roots in China’s neighboring countries, Korea and Japan where people spend huge
amounts of money on remodeling their bodies and faces. According to ND Lease
and Service, a Japanese consulting company, Japanese people spend some US $18.7
billion on cosmetic surgery every year. As of Korea, it is home for well over
2,000 cosmetic surgery clinics and it’s estimated that over 50% of Korean women
in their 20’s have had some kind of cosmetic surgery. If these numbers seem
amazingly high, they won’t be so anymore when compared to the even greater
numbers of Chinese that will be subject to cosmetic surgery in the near future.
With China’s rapid development and the saturation of
both the Japanese and Korean markets, it’s just a matter of time before the
cosmetic surgery craze extends all over China.
In developed
countries like the United
States, anti-discriminatory laws are quite
strict and the penalties for violations rather severe. No one can be refused a
job opportunity based on his or her appearance alone. The fact that a person is
short, chubby, ugly or dark-skinned (if it’s these physical traits which are
considered “ugly” and undesirable) is no grounds to deny employment. In China; though,
it’s normal to see signs requesting employees that fulfill not only a series of
academic requirements, but a few physical requirements as well. In China it’s
still common for an employer to perform a first round of selection based on the
appearance of the candidate alone, if the nature of the company does so require
it. The tall, fair-skinned, good-looking and well-groomed hold a definite
advantage. This just may be one of the reasons beauty salons, spas and cosmetic
surgery clinics are spreading at an almost geometric rate.
Cosmetic
surgery, only allowed as a means for reconstructing deformities resulting from
accidents, was forbidden by the Chinese authorities as a means of enhancing
beauty needlessly. Nowadays; though, cosmetic surgery is widely accepted and
sought after by those wanting to improve their appearance as well as their
chances of getting a better-paid job (or a rich husband in the case of many
women), where anti-discrimination laws are - if existent - in just their
embryonic and most primitive form.
According to
the figures released by the government, the Chinese spend over USD 2.4 billion
a year on cosmetic surgery. China,
a developing nation in every sense of the word, is definitely a good bet for
those already in the business, and for any forward-looking entrepreneur willing
to make a profit in the years to come.
Profits in
the cosmetic surgery field, just as in many other industries in China, are
based on volume sales, as opposed to high markups. Getting folded eye-lids may
cost USD $20 on an average; a nose reconstruction $50 and a breast
augmentation, one of the most sought after procedures, can be quite costly
reaching $900 due to the shortage of silicon required to produce the implants.
The fact that
more and more women have access to cosmetic surgery, especially breast
augmentations, says much of the improving economic condition of the Chinese
people and of their great desire to look better – even if it costs them the
income of nearly a year’s work in some cases.
A beautiful
woman is worth a million dollars
The Chinese
economy, and specially its service component, is like any other -
sales-oriented, thus will go the extra mile to make sure that customers are
pleased with the quality of the service they receive. Just as with food, first
impressions are what sell in any business in which customers must make
face-to-face contact with a service representative. Chinese, just like anybody
else feel more at ease when dealing with a physically pleasant individual at
the counter. In a country where the gross of the income still comes from men,
it’s of the utmost importance to have a beautiful woman behind the counter. A
beautiful woman will sell anything and everything to a man with a few dollars
to spare.
Beauty is
also of the essence if we take into account Chinese traditions. In China it’s still important for women to find a
husband – a part of China’s
social gadgetry, really. This is basically due to the fact that a woman,
regardless of her economic position, is not well seen if left unmarried. It’s
thus common to see parents congregate in parks or tea houses with the sole mission
of finding their offspring an adequate couple. The pressure from the parents is
strong and will often result in marriages celebrated just to keep a good image
in society.
With an ever
growing number of millionaires in China, the chances of marrying one
are greater than ever – if the woman has what it takes to catch one. Men are
visual animals and as such are quite responsive to appearances. Men often
choose their partners based on the mere looks of the girl – sadly enough, just
the way they choose their food. Needless to say, a beautiful woman has better
chances of finding a rich husband before an ugly one does. Any money spent in a
beauty parlor or on expensive cosmetic surgery is then, money well invested.
Modern
Chinese people have different ways of flaunting their power from those in the
past. A few A little less than a century ago, land, animals and the possibility
of having various concubines said a lot of a man’s wealth. Nowadays; though,
things have changed strikingly and so have these wealth-portraying objects. As
the economic condition of Chinese people has improved, so has their taste for
more luxurious and fine objects – women included. Not long ago a good belt was
a sign of a good economic position. With the rapid development of
telecommunications a belt became a good cell phone. And for those with the
sufficient means, nothing says more of a man’s wealth than a nice series S
Mercedes Benz or a Series 7 BMW. No matter how times change; though, there’s an
item that has remained unchanged in men’s wealth showcase – that item is and
seems will for ever be, a beautiful woman.
Whether it
was a chubby, big-footed woman in the past or a thin, nearly anorexic woman in
present times, a beautiful woman has always been a symbol of wealth and power.
The strongest man (physically in the past or intellectually and economically in
the present) will get the most beautiful woman (or women). Beauty, as Lord
Henry in Oscar Wilde’s Dorian Gray said, “ends where
an intellectual expression begins. Intellect is in itself a mode of
exaggeration, and destroys the harmony of any face.” Women lacking the
most basic education have nothing to fear if they seem beautiful in the eyes of
the powerful man.
The ugly side
of beauty
Forfeiting
and lack of control
Profits are
bringing not only reputable cosmetics firms and plastic surgeons into the
Chinese market. They’re also attracting hoards of aficionados and overnight
entrepreneurs and self-made doctors looking for big profits and an early
retirement.
Developing
cosmetics for human use and performing a surgery, especially cosmetic surgery,
requires knowledge and experience which can only be acquired through years of
study and practice. In China,
as opposed to more developed countries, like the U.S.A or those in Europe, it’s rather easy to become a medical
practitioner. Whereas in the U.S.A.
or Europe it’s necessary to have a P.H.D. in order to be a surgeon, in China a 5-year
associate degree is all that’s needed. Such a lack of expertise is sure to
cause medical malpractice and subsequent complaints and court cases – if
luckily enough, not deaths.
In China both
cosmetic products and cosmetic surgery clinics and their personnel act freely
without any present or foreseeable legislation to protect customers. Day and
night it is possible to see banners, radio and TV commercials and shows, signs
at bus-stops and stations, promoting a thousand and one cosmetic products and
cosmetic surgery clinics boasting of their techniques and miraculous results.
It’s only true that good advertising can sell just about everything.
The media is
an excellent tool for promoting new products; especially those for which
popular knowledge is limited or non-existent. In the case of cosmetics, the media
is a strong and indispensable ally when it comes to selling miracle workers
like overnight fat removers and breast enhancers, quick rejuvenating masks and
wrinkle removers. It is true that some products have the ability of working
marvels over time, but the results that some widely advertised products claim
to have, are just nonsense. One of these products for example, is a cream
currently promoted through local media, which claims to have the ability of
removing fat from areas of the body where it’s not welcome, like legs and
buttocks and transferring it to the breast area where it’s most desirable. If
such claims were true, the inventor of the magic cream would’ve possibly won a
Noble Prize by now.
The amount of
forfeit cosmetics or of those which are simply unsuitable for human use can be
found all over China; the problem being that there are no clear policies to
control 1) forfeiting (as is the case not only with cosmetics), 2) chemical
content of cosmetic products and 3) false advertising claims.
The growing
number of fake or bad products has resulted in an equally growing number of
consumer complaints which is keeping the local authorities quite busy.
According to a report on the beauty industry realized by the economists He Fan,
Ba Shusong, Zhong wei and Zhaoxiao, the number of cosmetics-related complaints
is the third highest among industries in China.
On March 15, China celebrated China’s first Consumer’s Day.
During this celebration several products came to the people’s attention. One of
them, for example, a cream for removing freckles sold in well over 3,000
outlets nationwide, contained an amount of a chemical called Hydrargyrum 27,000
times of that acceptable for human use.
The product mentioned above is only one
of many which are sold freely in the market, and do so undetected mainly due to
the minimum amounts of mostly unknown and sometimes hazardous chemicals
contained in their formulations. Products like these will keep harming
consumers unless the relevant authorities take a stand and make a real effort
to supervise and control those in the industry.
As a result of an investigation
performed for the issuance of the 1st report on the cosmetic
industry, the CCAC (China’s
Consumer Association), the following problems were discovered:
- Many manufacturers lack sanitary
permits.
- Some products don’t carry a CIQ
(Consumer Information Quality) label, or the labels attached are false.
- Some products lack dates of
production and expiration.
- Many products don’t carry information
leaflets printed in Chinese
The observations cited above are just
the tip of the iceberg and are findings resulting from more than 200,000
complaints forwarded by those affected by the industry’s malpractices in the
last 10 years. More than 300,000 people have been harmed or injured as a result
of irregular practices in beauty salons alone. The number of complaints
directly related to cosmetics products themselves is even higher. Unfortunately
the Chinese government faces an industry that has been growing at a steady and
staggering 15% rate on an annual basis – a giant for a non-existent
legislation. The number of people employed in the industry is already counted
in the millions and its income by the billions. Promulgating effective
regulations and enforcing them properly will prove to be a titanic undertaking
for the government.
The Chinese government knows it is of
the essence that the industry is controlled, so that customers are more
satisfied with the products, thus purchase more and not less, having in mind
that they’re not putting their lives on the line every time they put on
lipstick or moisturizing cream.
Beauty and
social disorders
Trends turned into common habits may at
times be hazardous for health. Such is the case of dieting in order to become
slim, which is a characteristic considered attractive in women of our times.
Dieting can, if performed in an exaggerated manner, turn into an eating disorder
known as anorexia; a disorder which may prove deadly if left untreated. With an
increasing preoccupation of Chinese people to look trendy and beautiful,
anorexia is becoming a commonly seen disease; especially among young Chinese
women in big cities like Shanghai and Beijing where the newest fashions and
trends first take foot in China.
The cosmetics
market – a market for everybody
According to statistics, the market for
beauty products in China
is growing at a very rapid rate. In 1992 cosmetics sales in China barely
amounted to USD 24.1$ million, whereas in 2003 they reached an amazing $6.27
billion. With such a potential for development in such a short time, it’s no
wonder more and more companies, both local and foreign, want a part of the action
and a slice of the huge profits cake.
Avon, for example, an American
cosmetics firm specialized in door-to-door sales has recently invested nearly
USD $40 million in its south China
factory. Such an onerous investment is not without a reason if we consider that
Avon’s sales in China
in 2003 were $4 billion and $5.5 billion in 2005. With a 12% annual market
growth it’s not strange to see the number of foreign companies that have
established themselves in China
grows year after year. In 2001 there were only 10 companies, whereas the number
increased to 21 in 2003.
Foreign cosmetics companies have been
in the business for quite a while now thus know where to better allocate their
funds and how to go about promoting sales in their target markets. These
companies invest heavily on high technology geared towards servicing the ever
growing Chinese middle-high and high income classes.
The
Chinese beauty industry is growing rapidly and with it the number of jobs
created. Those in the industry, perceiving an annual income in the order of
trillions of Yuan have a definite and strong effect on the economy; fueling it,
propelling it. The Chinese people’s desire to be beautiful, a newcomer amongst
Chinese traditional values, is not and will not be fulfilled without a cost. If
the industry is to continue developing, it’s necessary for the relevant
authorities to set clear standards and regulations, as well as instituting more
and better bodies of supervision. More jobs, greater income and better
standards – It doesn’t get any prettier than that, does it?